The drive to the west coast is not a long one and is mostly interstate (H-1). Within an easy half hour I was on the west coast highway at Ko Olina and heading north. The west coast highway tracks the beach the entire way until it ends at the Yokohama Beach park on the northwest corner of Oahu. The scenery is beautiful though not as stunning as on the east coast because it lacks the views from 500 foot cliff overhangs.
My first pullover was at a small public beach park where there were many families enjoying the holiday together (see below). The water was a beautiful blue-green and the surf was good with many surfers congregating 70 to 80 feet off shore, but I noticed that the ocean floor was mostly reef and decided it was not a swimming or body-surfing opportunity and so headed northward.
My next stop was at the Kani Kui beach park. I walked down to the water and the shoreline was very rocky (see below). No one was swimming but several were fishing. I caught a photo of a rather large girl pulling in a rather small fish (see below).
After 10 minutes or so I was back in my pick 'em up truck and driving northward. I stopped once or twice to photograph the mountain points that stop at the sea (see below). You can see the rain in the mountains but it was sunny and clear on the beaches all day. One of the towns I drove through was Maili and there were several sandy beaches that looked very inviting. I did not stop, however, as I decided to try and make it as for northward as I could on this trip to see what my options were for the next one.
I ditched that plan when I hit Makaha Beach and saw a lot of tents set up, heard live music and saw a number of videographers on the beach documenting the activity in the sea. As it turned out it was the 16th annual Makaha Beach surfing championships which take place over 6 weekends during the winter. On this day, the competition was limited to individual paddle surfers and 4-person outrigger canoe teams. The surf patterns were perfect for the competition and exactly the type I had been looking for; you can literally ride one wave from its initial swell all the way onto the beach which for the paddle surfers was for a distance of almost half a mile; truly awesome stuff. Unfortunately, because of the competition all onlookers were limited to a portion of the beach that had no wave breaks whatsoever but I did some swimming around for the fun of it (see photos below).
Another view from the beach at the competition - Though hard to see, this was a picture of a family of 4 (Dad, son and 2 teen-aged daughters winning the outrigger canoe surfing competition)
I am including a picture of one of the youngsters fleeing the surf (see below); she was well aware that if you are 10 feet or more out from the shoreline before one of the large waves comes in (even though you are only in 12 to 18 inches of water) that the pull is so strong that you will be sucked into the wave and at its mercy. At the end of a wave break from the large waves, the white sea foam is so plentiful that it covers up everyone that was caught by the wave and covers them up for a few seconds despite their bests efforts.
I tried several times to move toward the beach or just hold my ground before a big wave and was instead pulled backwards or knocked off my feet and pummeled by the wave. The good news is that these large wave sets do not come in regularly and can easily be anticipated so you can avoid them but I could easily imagine how incredible the force must have been before the big tsunami that killed some many several years ago near Thailand. The further good news here is that this undertow does not take you out to deep water; it only pulls you for a short distance into the wave and then the wave immediately propels you swiftly up onto the beach as your bathing suit and hair become filled with sand (see photos below).
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